"I can’t believe your camera has no batteries. This is the most depressing thing." So says a young guy to his father. The place has even managed to ‘wow’ me: golden ceiling, every square meter of the walls somehow decorated, blue interiors of the peripheral domes, shafts of sunlights angling down. It is certainly big, but the cathedrals in Mainz were close to this size. Instead, what might explain the Basilica’s awesomeness is its openness - only a few major columns along the side corridors - and its colour, which makes those Gothic creations feel like paupers or primitives built them. This is the standard to which to compare all other Christian sites - the touchstone.
Fish decorating a basin of (presumably) holy water